The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources is currently taking public input as part of the process for the Central Hills Master Plan revision until Friday, June 12, 2020. This region includes the important areas of Devils Lake, Gibraltar Rock, and Sauk Prairie Recreation Area, as well as provides the opportunity to comment on the DNR’s purchase of Hillbilly Hollow. Please take a few minutes to fill out the ONLINE INPUT FORM (Mail in and phone comments are also accepted)
Similar to the RIB MOUNTAIN public commenting period, this is our opportunity to have a say in how these properties are managed. Being a regional master plan, this process encompasses 2,170 square miles of land hosting a variety of valued climbing areas.This blog post will look at each of the major areas and provide comment suggestions for the ONLINE INPUT FORM. In order to have the most significant impact, the WCA recommends making comments pertaining to each individual area. This can be done by selecting the area you wish to comment on in the first question and submitting as three separate forms, or by designating which area you are commenting on in the general questions section.
Photo: Somewhere along the South Bluff at Devils Lake. (Aidan Benkowski)
DEVILS LAKE
Devils Lake is the most visited state park in Wisconsin, attracting more than three million visitors each year. It is also regarded by many as the best climbing in the state, serving as a Midwest climbing mecca. Although the climbing community has been able to keep a positive relationship with the property managers through most of the rich climbing history, this is the opportunity to address a few access and stewardship concerns.
First, we recommend you comment stating you wish to see the areas of “New Sandstone” and the South Bluff SNA to be re-opened to climbing of all forms. These areas were abruptly closed to roped climbing with little to no explanation as to why.
Next, we encourage you to comment asking the DNR to work with the climbing community to preserve the legacy of traditional climbing within Devils Lake State Park. This includes preventing the addition of fixed anchors and careful consideration when discussing the replacement of the few currently in place. Likewise, we ask you to recommend the DNR work with the WCA to develop erosion control strategies throughout the park, but especially in highly trafficked climbing areas.
Finally, state that we would like to see the DNR provide promotional materials acknowledging the different climbing opportunities found within the park. This includes, but is not limited to bouldering, ice climbing, roped climbing, and scrambling.
Photo: Looking down on the amphitheater known as Rhombus Head at Gibraltar Rock. (Jon Jugenheimer)
GIBRALTAR ROCK
Not too far south of Devils Lake lies the beautiful sandstone bluffs that make up Gibraltar Rock, with rock faces stretching upwards of 150 feet. This area, first explored in the 1960s, provided a significant number of high quality sport and trad climbs for nearly 40 years. Unfortunately, climbing was banned some years ago with little to no evidence it had a negative impact on the natural area.
We recommend you comment that you would like to see Gibraltar Rock (Identified as an “Ice Age Trail Property” on the Online Form) re-opened to rock climbing. Likewise, encourage the DNR to work with the WCA in creating erosion control plans for highly trafficked climbing areas at this potential crag.
SAUK PRAIRIE RECREATION AREA
The old Badger Ammunition Plant, just south of Devil’s Lake, includes a few scattered boulders. While this is not currently an access or stewardship problem, we would like to see bouldering acknowledged in future master planning.
OTHER
In addition to the areas mentioned above, the DNR is considering purchasing the land near the Coloma Rest Area in which Hillbilly Hollow currently sits as part of the Ice Age Trail. This public input form is an appropriate time for you to support that consideration, and comment letting them know you value the climbing opportunities on that land (Identified as an “Ice Age Trail Property” and referred to as “The land near the Coloma Rest Area on the online form).
About The Author | Kyle Harding
Kyle is a physical education teacher, guide/instructor, setter, and current WCA board member who spends a majority of his free time recreating with family and friends. When he is not spending time outside biking, climbing, or snowboarding, he enjoys a strong cup of coffee over a good board game.