If you enjoy bouldering at Rib Mountain, or you love the prospect of bouldering there, we need you to tell the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources (DNR).
Photo: Erick Kopff on the first ascent of Bird of Prey (V10).
Master Planning: The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources is starting the revision process for the Rib Mountain State Park master plan. Last revised in 2005, this process will evaluate how the public currently uses the park, as well as determine the possibility for new recreational opportunities. With a checkered access history, now is the perfect opportunity to let the DNR know about the valuable climbing possibilities Rib Mountain presents.
Currently, the Initial Public Input phase is in progress; running until Saturday, February 22, 2020. This phase allows the public to submit comments on items they would like to see included in the master plan. Although these comments can be submitted in any form, the DNR recommends either filling out the provided ONLINE FORM, or mailing in a HARDCOPY FORM, to encourage a smooth process.
Following the Initial Public Input phase, the DNR will begin to develop goals and alternatives, taking all things into consideration. It is anticipated that many of the goals and alternatives will be presented by early summer 2020. Another public commenting period will follow, allowing people to voice their concerns both online and in person.
Once the goals and alternatives are identified, the DNR will take into consideration the interests of all parties, including the public, property managers, and recreation specialists with the intent of developing a draft master plan by fall 2020. Once again, public input will be welcomed through an open-house meeting, as well as an online survey shortly after.
Finally, it is anticipated that sometime in winter 2020, the staff will modify the draft master plan to create the proposed master plan. This version will be submitted to the Natural Resource Board (NRB) for review. Public input is also welcome at the final evaluation, but follows a different set of GUIDELINES. If all goes well, an accepted master plan should be in place by spring 2021.
Photo: Kelsen crimping on Feels Like Butter (V4) | Adam Remus
A little more history on climbing at Rib Mountain: people have been climbing in and around the state park since the 1970’s. The unique topography and beautiful white quartzite provide an awesome opportunity for local climbers.
Bouldering became popular in the state park in the 1990’s through the early 2000’s. Although still small, there was a large enough community for a local guidebook to be printed. Unfortunately, this guidebook hasn’t been seen in years, but is believed to hold a great deal of information.
With the last master plan revision in 2005, the DNR declared the top of the mountain, around the observation tower, a State Natural Area (SNA). Like many SNA’s in Wisconsin, climbing was banned. Climbers were only to learn about the ban five or so years later.
After some discussion with the DNR’s Regional Director for Parks in 2013, it was determined that bouldering is not defined as climbing under the administrative code. However, the victory was short lived when the ban on climbing was reinforced and bouldering was limited to just two areas in 2015. Again, climbers found out about the changes some years later, unclear if public input was even welcome prior to the changes.
Photo: Josh on The Raptor (V7) | Adam Remus
What can we do as climbers to help? Stay involved throughout the revision process and let our voice be heard throughout the various commenting periods. Although many people are good at expressing their opinions, we recognize that commenting on these surveys can be difficult to do in a clear and concise manner. In addition to your own comments and concerns, we suggest using the following as a guideline to help you fill out the survey the DNR has provided.
“If the following additional or new recreation opportunities were available at Rib Mountain State Park, how likely would you be to use them?” For this question we recommend selecting “Other” option and including the following in your responses:
Bouldering; Very Likely
Climbing; Very Likely
“What do you value about Rib Mountain State Park (including the ski area)?” This question is the perfect opportunity to let the DNR know that you enjoy the unique topography/geology the area provides. If you have bouldered/climbed at Rib Mountain before, state you have enjoyed it. If you haven’t, let them know you would love to have the ability to do so in the future.
“What new or expanded experiences is Rib Mountain State Park (including the ski area) well-suited to provide?” This question allows you to provide an answer similar to above. It is also a good opportunity to let the DNR know you believe the possibility of bouldering/climbing should be reexamined by people who understand the activities. Likewise, let them know this is a perfect opportunity for the parks to continue to work with the climbing community.
“What are your thoughts on the management of habitat, species, and other natural resources at Rib Mountain State Park (including the ski area)?” Naturally, most climbers have great respect for the land. Let the DNR know it is your intention to only boulder/climb in areas that don't risk damaging unique natural resources.
“What questions, issues, or information needs should the planning process address?” This question provides the opportunity to clear up some of the confusion in regards to current access. Asking the following will hopefully help clear up some of the confusion.
Request they clearly delineate the current designated bouldering area.
State that you don’t understand why climbing was banned in the State Natural Area with over 30 years of climbing history prior to the ban.
Ask if there is any evidence of climbing having a negative impact on the area.
“Please share any additional comments you have on the future use and management of Rib Mountain State Park (including the ski area).” Let the DNR know you are excited to hear more about their plans with bouldering/climbing in Rib Mountain State Park as the revision process continues.
About The Author | Kyle Harding
Kyle is a physical education teacher, guide/instructor, setter, and current WCA board member who spends a majority of his free time recreating with family and friends. When he is not spending time outside biking, climbing, or snowboarding, he enjoys a strong cup of coffee over a good board game.