ACCESS | Keeping Track of the WDNR

If you climb in Wisconsin, you probably spend a lot of your time climbing on State-owned land.  And most climbing sites on State property are managed by the Department of Natural Resources[1].  So it is important to pay attention to changes in how the DNR manages its properties.

As a public agency, the DNR regularly publishes announcements about what it’s up to.  Back in the day, you looked for these things posted on physical bulletin boards and in the “newspaper of record.”  Nowadays you can sign up to receive all these announcements by email (and even text).

How to Get DNR Announcements

There are several ways you can subscribe to DNR email announcements.

If you are browsing through the DNR website (dnr.wisconsin.gov), at the bottom of many pages you will find a link you can click.

You can also just go directly to the subscription link:

https://public.govdelivery.com/accounts/WIDNR/subscriber/new

Make an Account with your Email Address

You create a subscription account for yourself using your email address and a password (optional).  You’ll be able to come back to this website and add or drop subscriptions in the future.  You will receive a confirmation when you first sign up, and in the future whenever you make any changes.

Pick From a Menu of DNR Topics

From there you are taken to COMPREHENSIVE list of topics you might subscribe to (it’s a big agency, that is required to manage many things).  There isn’t a single topic for “climbing” – you’ll want to subscribe to a few different items to keep tabs on what the DNR is up to.

Also, be aware that topics come and go – subscribe to some of the general news items so that you may hear when there is a new topic of interest.

I recommend you take some time to browse through these top level topics:

  • Announcement & News – DNR Hearings and Meetings will send you a weekly calendar of upcoming opportunities to ask questions and/or voice your opinion.

  • State Parks, Forests and Trails – for news about what’s going on at specific Parks, or throughout our park system.

  • Property Master Planning – for properties and regions that are currently being planned.  You’ll need to come back to this as more properties enter the planning process.

Some additional topic areas that you should take a look at are:

  • Volunteer – park and State Natural Area volunteer opportunities

  • Office of Communication – DNR-wide news

  • Outdoor Recreation – for SCORP, the Statewide Comprehensive Outdoor Recreation Plan, that is updated every 5 years.

  • Natural Resources Board – looking at their agenda each month is a good idea.

Save Your Choices

When you’ve clicked on the list of topics that is important to you, SAVE the list (the button at the bottom of the page).  You’ll be given an opportunity to subscribe to topics from other government agencies, and SAVE A SECOND TIME.

The subscription website will email you a list of topics you have subscribed to.

What the WCA is following

You subscribed to topics:

  • Rib Mountain State Park

  • Devil's Lake State Park

  • Governor Dodge State Park

  • High Cliff State Park

  • DNR News Releases

  • Mill Bluff State Park

  • Willow River State Park

  • Interstate State Park

  • Wyalusing State Park

  • Black River State Forest

  • Outdoor Report

  • Ice Age National Scenic Trail

  • Brief of Action

  • Natural Heritage Conservation News and Events

  • Agenda

  • Sauk Prairie Recreation Area Master Planning Process

  • Southeast Region State Natural Area Volunteers

  • Southwest Region State Natural Area Volunteers

  • Rib Mountain Master Plan Amendment

  • DNR Hearings and Meetings

  • Wisconsin Statewide Comprehensive Outdoor Recreation Plan

  • Central Sands State Natural Area Volunteers

  • State Parks, Forests, Recreational Areas, and Trails Volunteer Opportunities

  • Recreation opportunities analysis

  • Northwest Sands Ecological Landscape Master Plan

  • Central Sand Plains Region

  • Southwest Savanna Regional Master Plan

  • Statewide Master Planning

  • Central Sand Hills Master Plan

[1] There are two important exceptions:  Petenwell Bluff (Necedah) and Hillbilly Hollow.  Both of these sites are on State property managed by the Department of Transportation.  Additionally, there are climbing sites on Federal, county, municipal, and private property scattered around Wisconsin.  These distinctions  matter.

ACCESS | CENTRAL HILLS 2020 MASTER PLAN REVISION

The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources is currently taking public input as part of the process for the Central Hills Master Plan revision until Friday, June 12, 2020. This region includes the important areas of Devils Lake, Gibraltar Rock, and Sauk Prairie Recreation Area, as well as provides the opportunity to comment on the DNR’s purchase of Hillbilly Hollow. Please take a few minutes to fill out the ONLINE INPUT FORM (Mail in and phone comments are also accepted)

Similar to the RIB MOUNTAIN public commenting period, this is our opportunity to have a say in how these properties are managed. Being a regional master plan, this process encompasses 2,170 square miles of land hosting a variety of valued climbing areas.This blog post will look at each of the major areas and provide comment suggestions for the ONLINE INPUT FORM. In order to have the most significant impact, the WCA recommends making comments pertaining to each individual area. This can be done by selecting the area you wish to comment on in the first question and submitting as three separate forms, or by designating which area you are commenting on in the general questions section.

Photo: Somewhere along the South Bluff at Devils Lake. (Aidan Benkowski)

DEVILS LAKE

Devils Lake is the most visited state park in Wisconsin, attracting more than three million visitors each year. It is also regarded by many as the best climbing in the state, serving as a Midwest climbing mecca. Although the climbing community has been able to keep a positive relationship with the property managers through most of the rich climbing history, this is the opportunity to address a few access and stewardship concerns. 

First, we recommend you comment stating you wish to see the areas of “New Sandstone” and the South Bluff SNA to be re-opened to climbing of all forms. These areas were abruptly closed to roped climbing with little to no explanation as to why. 

Next, we encourage you to comment asking the DNR to work with the climbing community to preserve the legacy of traditional climbing within Devils Lake State Park. This includes preventing the addition of fixed anchors and careful consideration when discussing the replacement of the few currently in place. Likewise, we ask you to recommend the DNR work with the WCA to develop erosion control strategies throughout the park, but especially in highly trafficked climbing areas. 

Finally, state that we would like to see the DNR provide promotional materials acknowledging the different climbing opportunities found within the park. This includes, but is not limited to bouldering, ice climbing, roped climbing, and scrambling.

Photo: Looking down on the amphitheater known as Rhombus Head at Gibraltar Rock. (Jon Jugenheimer)

GIBRALTAR ROCK

Not too far south of Devils Lake lies the beautiful sandstone bluffs that make up Gibraltar Rock, with rock faces stretching upwards of 150 feet.  This area, first explored in the 1960s, provided a significant number of high quality sport and trad climbs for nearly 40 years. Unfortunately, climbing was banned some years ago with little to no evidence it had a negative impact on the natural area. 

We recommend you comment that you would like to see Gibraltar Rock (Identified as an “Ice Age Trail Property” on the Online Form) re-opened to rock climbing. Likewise, encourage the DNR to work with the WCA in creating erosion control plans for highly trafficked climbing areas at this potential crag.

SAUK PRAIRIE RECREATION AREA

The old Badger Ammunition Plant, just south of Devil’s Lake, includes a few scattered boulders.  While this is not currently an access or stewardship problem, we would like to see bouldering acknowledged in future master planning.

OTHER

In addition to the areas mentioned above, the DNR is considering purchasing the land near the Coloma Rest Area in which Hillbilly Hollow currently sits as part of the Ice Age Trail. This public input form is an appropriate time for you to support that consideration, and comment letting them know you value the climbing opportunities on that land (Identified as an “Ice Age Trail Property” and referred to as “The land near the Coloma Rest Area on the online form).

About The Author | Kyle Harding

Kyle is a physical education teacher, guide/instructor, setter, and current WCA board member who spends a majority of his free time recreating with family and friends. When he is not spending time outside biking, climbing, or snowboarding, he enjoys a strong cup of coffee over a good board game.

ACCESS | RIB MOUNTAIN 2020 MASTER PLAN REVISION

If you enjoy bouldering at Rib Mountain, or you love the prospect of bouldering there, we need you to tell the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources (DNR).  

Photo: Erick Kopff on the first ascent of Bird of Prey (V10).

Master Planning: The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources is starting the revision process for the Rib Mountain State Park master plan. Last revised in 2005, this process will evaluate how the public currently uses the park, as well as determine the possibility for new recreational opportunities. With a checkered access history, now is the perfect opportunity to let the DNR know about the valuable climbing possibilities Rib Mountain presents.

Currently, the Initial Public Input phase is in progress; running until Saturday, February 22, 2020. This phase allows the public to submit comments on items they would like to see included in the master plan. Although these comments can be submitted in any form, the DNR recommends either filling out the provided ONLINE FORM, or mailing in a HARDCOPY FORM, to encourage a smooth process. 

Following the Initial Public Input phase, the DNR will begin to develop goals and alternatives, taking all things into consideration. It is anticipated that many of the goals and alternatives will be presented by early summer 2020. Another public commenting period will follow, allowing people to voice their concerns both online and in person.

Once the goals and alternatives are identified, the DNR will take into consideration the interests of all parties, including the public, property managers, and recreation specialists with the intent of developing a draft master plan by fall 2020. Once again, public input will be welcomed through an open-house meeting, as well as an online survey shortly after.

Finally, it is anticipated that sometime in winter 2020, the staff will modify the draft master plan to create the proposed master plan. This version will be submitted to the Natural Resource Board (NRB) for review. Public input is also welcome at the final evaluation, but follows a different set of GUIDELINES.  If all goes well, an accepted master plan should be in place by spring 2021. 

Photo: Kelsen crimping on Feels Like Butter (V4) | Adam Remus

A little more history on climbing at Rib Mountain: people have been climbing in and around the state park since the 1970’s. The unique topography and beautiful white quartzite provide an awesome opportunity for local climbers. 

Bouldering became popular in the state park in the 1990’s through the early 2000’s. Although still small, there was a large enough community for a local guidebook to be printed. Unfortunately, this guidebook hasn’t been seen in years, but is believed to hold a great deal of information. 

With the last master plan revision in 2005, the DNR declared the top of the mountain, around the observation tower, a State Natural Area (SNA). Like many SNA’s in Wisconsin, climbing was banned. Climbers were only to learn about the ban five or so years later. 

After some discussion with the DNR’s Regional Director for Parks in 2013, it was determined that bouldering is not defined as climbing under the administrative code. However, the victory was short lived when the ban on climbing was reinforced and bouldering was limited to just two areas in 2015. Again, climbers found out about the changes some years later, unclear if public input was even welcome prior to the changes. 

Photo: Josh on The Raptor (V7) | Adam Remus

What can we do as climbers to help? Stay involved throughout the revision process and let our voice be heard throughout the various commenting periods. Although many people are good at expressing their opinions, we recognize that commenting on these surveys can be difficult to do in a clear and concise manner. In addition to your own comments and concerns, we suggest using the following as a guideline to help you fill out the survey the DNR has provided. 

“If the following additional or new recreation opportunities were available at Rib Mountain State Park, how likely would you be to use them?” For this question we recommend selecting “Other” option and including the following in your responses:

  •  Bouldering; Very Likely

  • Climbing; Very Likely

“What do you value about Rib Mountain State Park (including the ski area)?” This question is the perfect opportunity to let the DNR know that you enjoy the unique topography/geology the area provides. If you have bouldered/climbed at Rib Mountain before, state you have enjoyed it. If you haven’t, let them know you would love to have the ability to do so in the future.  

“What new or expanded experiences is Rib Mountain State Park (including the ski area) well-suited to provide?” This question allows you to provide an answer similar to above. It is also a good opportunity to let the DNR know you believe the possibility of bouldering/climbing should be reexamined by people who understand the activities. Likewise, let them know this is a perfect opportunity for the parks to continue to work with the climbing community. 

“What are your thoughts on the management of habitat, species, and other natural resources at Rib Mountain State Park (including the ski area)?” Naturally, most climbers have great respect for the land. Let the DNR know it is your intention to only boulder/climb in areas that don't risk damaging unique natural resources. 

“What questions, issues, or information needs should the planning process address?” This question provides the opportunity to clear up some of the confusion in regards to current access. Asking the following will hopefully help clear up some of the confusion. 

  • Request they clearly delineate the current designated bouldering area. 

  • State that you don’t understand why climbing was banned in the State Natural Area with over 30 years of climbing history prior to the ban. 

  • Ask if there is any evidence of climbing having a negative impact on the area. 

“Please share any additional comments you have on the future use and management of Rib Mountain State Park (including the ski area).” Let the DNR know you are excited to hear more about their plans with bouldering/climbing in Rib Mountain State Park as the revision process continues.

About The Author | Kyle Harding

Kyle is a physical education teacher, guide/instructor, setter, and current WCA board member who spends a majority of his free time recreating with family and friends. When he is not spending time outside biking, climbing, or snowboarding, he enjoys a strong cup of coffee over a good board game.